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    Flower Arranging With Hello Honey Flower Co.


    As we continue to welcome the warm months and there’s still a week or two left in peony season, Amy and I thought it would be fun to give you guys some tips on how to take grocery store bought flowers and elevate them to the next level! Amy is owner of Hello Honey Flower Co., a full service flower design company based right here in LA (lucky for me). Her work is both elegant and whimsical. Her arrangements are not old fashioned and stuffy but instead she allows the unexpected patterns of nature to show off their wild side with unsymmetrical arrangements, whispy tulips and wonky ranunculas.

    She and her cutest pup of all time, Lemon, came over one afternoon and she shared all of her tricks for us. Watch the video for her inside scoop and read below for the basic steps of flower arranging as well as some additional pro tips.


    1. 1)Start by taping the vase into sections with floral tape in a “#” fashion. This gives a bit of structure for the flowers to rest on and will keep them right where you want them. Floral tape comes in different widths and colors and can be purchased at a variety of places like Michaels and Amazon.
    2. Begin arranging with your greenery. This gives your flowers more of a visual base and helps to fill in bare spots below the flowers.
      • Always cut off leaves and flowers below the water line of your arrangement. Leaves and flowers in the water can pollute ¬†the it causing the flowers to die more quickly ūüôĀ
    3. Next place your focal flower. This is the largest flower you will be putting in. Some good examples are: peonies, dahlias, garden roses; etc.
      • Use the vase to help determine how long the stem should be. Hold the flower next to the vase approximately at the height you want it to stand above the vase line and cut slightly longer.
      • As you place the stems in the vase, insert them so that the stems are going in at an angle allowing them to cross. This, along with the floral tape, helps to keep the flowers in place.
    4. From there you are just going to fill in with your filler flowers and additional greenery; read below for some additional tips and hints!
      • Some ideas for filler flowers are: spray roses, stock flower, queen annes lace, freesia or typically any flower smaller than the focal flower.

    • FORAGE! Amy says that one of the best ways to have natural looking arrangements is to forage for both greenery as well as flowers. You don’t have to go out and buy everything – the arrangements we made were done with both store bought flowers and foraged flowers/greenery.


    • Have a good pair of snips- Amy recommends having a nice pair of sheers to cut your stems with. They can be purchased many different places but¬†here is one I found on Amazon. Target also has some really cute garden tool sets that include sheers.


    • Keep in mind that nature is never symmetrical. Amy likes to mimic this by having free formed arrangements that are often higher on one side and slightly lower on there other, sometimes even with cascading foliage over one side. Inserting flowers like tulips and ranunculus with slightly longer stems can help an arrangement appear more organic and whimsical.

    • If flower arranging is something you really love to do you may want to purchase an inexpensive lazy susan. Here is a $10 option I found on amazon!¬†This allows you to easily see all angles of the arrangement with a ¬†quick spin.


    • It’s OK to edit the arrangement as you go! Amy said that sometimes she will even cut a flower off if she decided she doesn’t want it rather than trying to pull it out of all the criss-crossed stems.


    • Don’t be afraid to cut off leaves, sometimes too many varieties of leaves can start to look busy. You can keep the flower but cut off its leaves to save it from looking too disheveled.


    • Our favorite flower arranging book? The Flower Recipe book. It is beautiful and ¬†informative. It gives specific tips on different types of flowers, how to keep them alive longest and how to arrange them best.


    • Have fun with it!¬†Amy tells us that while there are some guidelines to arranging flowers, it is really all about creativity and personal preference! So have at it because you can’t do it wrong ūüôā


    Now, if that ^^ doesn’t inspire you I don’t know what will.

























    DIY, Home

    DIY: Wood Plank Picture Hanger

    Several months ago I printed a large painting of mine at 36″x48″. I wanted to get it hanging on my wall but frames that size were a) hard to come by and b) really expensive.¬†Neither of which were¬†in my favor, so, I got to thinking about alternative ways to frame it and I came up with this DIY 30 minute (plus dry time) project!

    Really, the sky is your limit with this frame, just about every aspect of it is customizable. You can stain it or paint it how ever you like and make it any size to suit your need! In the tutorial I am using 10″ pieces of wood but that can be changed up easily without changing the process. Best of all, even my 36″ version was only about $25!! It is great for accent pieces if you want a change from standard framing. It is also a great money saving alternative for irregularly sized pieces that would otherwise need a custom frame ($$$).

    I sized down the frame for the purposes of this tutorial but if you would like to see my original large version scroll all the way to the bottom ūüôā

    Two 10″ pieces of 1.5″ W x 0.25″ H¬†furniture grade wood (I used oak)
    ** you probably will need to buy a 4ft plank of wood and cut it down,
    you can do this yourself or have them do it for you at the hardware store**

    Multi-purpose glue for wood AND metal (I used this one)
    ** TIP: make sure the glue is non-foaming**

    ¬†Heavy duty magnets like these¬†1.25″ Neodymium magnet

    Washi tape


    Saw tooth picture hanger & nails OR a couple of command hanging strips
    ** if you chose the picture hanger make sure the nails are shorter
    than the height of the wood**


    • first and foremost – keep these magnets far away from each other. They are STRONG and they will snap together pinching any fingers that get in their way.
    • They should be marked with a red line on one side to indicate which side is positive and which side is negative. It doesn’t matter which you put on either side you just want to be sure one side of the frame has the lined side up and the other has the lined side down.


    1- Decide which side of wood you want to be the front of the frame and mark it with wash tape.

    2- On the reverse side – glue 2 of the magnets on either end with the lined side facing UP.

    3- Use washi tape to hold the magnets in place while they dry. I found out (the hard way) that it is actually better to use 2 strips per magnet in a “+” formation rather than just one across. You really want to be sure the magnets won’t slide around while they dry. When the two sides of the frame are put together the magnets¬†will align themselves to their counter part – if they are not even the wood will be offset as well.

    4- Grab the second plank of wood & line it up to the piece with glued magnets. Mark a line where the center of each magnet is on the new piece. (see photo above)

    5- Glue the other 2 magnets to the 2nd piece of wood with the red-line side DOWN in the middle of your drawn lines. (see photo above)

    6- Use washi tape and repeat step 3 on the second piece of wood.

    7- Allow the glue to dry for 24 hours and keep the wood planks at least two feet away from each other, I know it sounds ridiculous but as you may have already found out, they are really strong and if they are too close they will try to attract one another and ruin your project!

    8- Once the glue is dry you can screw the picture hanger on or attach the command strips (I recommend command strips, honestly).

    9- Place your artwork on the back piece of wood and carefully lay the front piece of wood on top. Try to align it but the magnets should align themselves РWATCH YOUR FINGERS!!

    10- Hang on the wall & voila!


    Below is the 36″x48″ piece I framed. I added a plank¬†across the bottom to frame it in a bit more, which is also an option. Such an inexpensive way to get large pieces framed and on the wall! The magnets used in this tutorial hold 8lbs per magnet, which should be fine in most cases, but in the instance you need to hang something really heavy they have stronger magnets available.

    DIY, Home

    DIY: Ombre Dyed Macrame Wall Hanging

     Okay, Let me start by saying I have zero experience with macrame. I have never taken a class nor have I made a wall hanging like this before!  You can DEFINITELY do it. All you need to learn is ONE kind of knot and I have a video and photos to explain it Рeasy peasy.

    I decided to make this because all of the macrame hangings that I fell in love with were upwards of $200, plus a lot of them weren’t quite as big as I needed. So, I set out to make exactly what I wanted. All in it was about $70.

    This can be a 3 day project with the brunt of the work on day 1 – day one will be an all day craft day (which you can easily split up into two days if that’s whats easiest for you). Then day 2 and 3 will probably be an hour or less. Really, it’s the dying and letting dry part that splits it up into 3 days so if you wanted to just leave it white¬†it would only¬†take a day or two. This piece measures 40″ long and about 40″ high – so it’s BIG and can stand alone on a blank wall.¬†I know it seems like it’s a lot of steps but each steps but I walk you through each one! It’s totally worth it – just LOOK at this beauty you end up with!

    I recommend before you get started that you skim through all of the steps and photos so you can come at it from more of bird’s-eye view ūüôā Comment below if you ave any questions and if you make it tag #thehollardaysblog on instagram so I can see it!

    40″ long 1/2″ wooden¬†rod

    20″ long 5/16″ wooden rod

    **You can buy the long rods at home depot or Lowe’s and they will cut them to length for you**

    300 yards of cotton macrame cord Рlike this

    *typically comes in 50 yard spools, I bought 6 of them*

    Rit dye- I used one of each: denim blue and navy blue

    Two 5 gallon bucktes

    dye mixing container

    plastic tarp

    wool roving – like this


    hot glue gun

    measuring tape

    Optional: old towel

    For Trouble shooting: clean sponge

    **NOTE: I stained my rods with a natural colored wood stain prior to starting this process. You can also do this but you definitely do not have to.


    • One 90‚ÄĚ cord (parent cord)
    • 145 ¬†– ¬†52‚ÄĚ cords (I know, I know – it’s a lot but put on your favorite movie and get after it! Having a friend help is also allowed ūüôā )
      • easiest way is cut one and mark it with tape, measure the rest against that one in sets of 10 and set aside.
    • 41 ¬†– ¬†60″ cords
    • One 80‚ÄĚ cord

    2) Loop the¬†145 ¬†¬†52‚ÄĚ cords around the 90‚ÄĚ parent cord

    • Match up the ends and loop (to get a visual of a similar step, head down to step #14. The only difference is that in this step you are looping around the cord, and in step #14 you are¬†looping around the wooden rod)
    • The way I show to do it is with the backside facing you – I found it to be quicker. So once you are finished flip it over so the loop is showing in front.

    3) On the left end – loop the 80‚ÄĚ cord so that one side of it matches the length of the other cords and the other side is significantly longer. (see illustration)

    • Once that is completed, make sure the side that shows the loop is in front. You want the cords snug against each other but not to the point of making the cord bow.

    4)Take long half of first cord and begin make a half hitch knot on it with each of the cords going across. This video shows how to make the knot, however in this video they do it TWICE for each cord, you only need to do it ONCE. Also – see illustrations below.

    5) DONE! Pat yourself on the back thats the most time consuming part! There is probably a little tail on the parent cord at this point but don’t worry about it yet.

    6) Fold macrame over on itself and tie in place, this will help to dye evenly across (see photos).

    7) Mix desired dye colors in a container, I used a whole bottle of navy blue and a whole bottle of denim blue.

    8)Fill 5 gallon bucket with hot water.

    9)Soak macrame in water just to get it wet.

    10)Add a small amount (approx 1/8th of dye) to water and dip the bundled macrame in up to knots. Be sure to hold the 90″ parent cord out of the dye so it stays white. Move the piece up and down slightly to avoid a hard line. The cords only need to been there until you can see it getting dyed, a minute or so.

    11)Repeat this 7 more times, each time submerging the hanging cords less deep than before and finishing the last time with just the tips.


    12)Squeeze remaning dye out of cords, moving from the top down so you don’t accidentally get blotches of dye on the lighter sections.

    13)Unfold and hang macrame to dry with an old towel or the plastic tarp underneath to catch drips. (Mine really didn’t drip much)

    **NOTE: if your dye looks uneven at the top (like mine…) head all the way to the bottom for trouble shooting that ūüôā


    14)Grab the 20″ rod and the 41 ¬†60″ cords and loop them around it as you did in step #2

    15)Then make the same single half hitch knots going across as you did in step #4. Lace the tail of it back through a couple of the knots on the backside (see larger photo below). You could also just glue it of you want ūüôā

               *at this point I ironed the cords to they would lay flat and be easier to work with, this is an optional step.

    ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬†**Then baby girl woke up from her nap…

    16) Cut 8 strips of roving to make a triangle shape and knot the ends. You may need to trim them to make a “perfect” triangle. Set aside a little tuft of roving for the point as well. (in the photo below there is actually 9 strips but I later realized that just a tuft was perfect for the point rather than an additional knot)

    17) Comb through the macrame cords with your fingers so they all lay flat and in place.

    18)Lay the longest piece of roving over the cords, bring to the front 7 pieces of cord evenly distributed across.

    19) Lay the next piece of roving (on top of all cords) and pull a cord to the front from between each of the 7 cords from step #18, starting on the outside of step 18s first cord (see photos).

    20) Grab the cords and flip the rest up so they are not in your working space.

    21) Lay the longest piece of roving between the cords alternating one on top and one underneath.

    22) Continue with each piece of roving alternating which cord in the section is on top to make a brick formation.

    23) Once the 8 pieces have been woven in scrunch them up so they are somewhat tight. Flip the whole piece so the backside of the triangle is facing you & tie a knot for every two cords. There should be 7 knots.

    ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† *The last piece will only have one cord to weave it through so just pick a side of the knot. you won’t notice its off center.

    24) Lay piece flat and comb through to organize cords again.

    25) Now loosen the middle bottom knot and stick the last tuft of roving through & pull tight to hold it in place. You may need to fluff it or trim it so it appears to be a point.

    ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬†**I actually did this part AFTER I cut the angles, but I suggest doing it before so that it doesn’t mess them up after you cut it. Bottom line, just look past my already cut angles in these photos ūüôā

    26) Now cut the angles in: mark with tape 14.5″ down on each side and 21.5″ in the middle. Outline the angles by connecting these points with tape. (see photo)

    27) Cut along the tape

    **NOTE: if like miiiiiine some of your cords ended up being too short – scroll down to the troubleshooting section and its an easy fix ūüôā


    28) Now that the dyed piece is dry we need to rinse it (The reason I let it dry first was because I wanted the dye to gravitate towards the bottom and allow for more of an ombre affect)

    29) Combine dye fixative with water in second 5 gal. bucket and rinse.

    30) Pat with a paper towel to make sure all of the extra dye has been rinsed out, the paper towel should be basically spotless.

    31) Hang and allow to dry again.

    32) Mark the middle of the 40″ rod and then approx 8″ out from that on either side. This will be where the middle piece hangs. Separate the rods with something that is about 3″ long and then connect the two rods with tap (see photo), I used my daughters blocks to help separate the rods… this will help A LOT as you are tying your knots. A friend¬†to hold it in place would also do ūüôā

    33) Attach 20″ stick. ¬†I am going to attempt to put this process into words but definitely look at the pictures for this.

              * Just outside of the tape loop the cord around the larger rod.

                *Wrap around the smaller stick two times and on the second one bring it between the cords of the first loop.

              *Bring it back up and through the original loop.

               * Cris cross the cords in the back and wrap them around the front and back to the back. Tie a double knot, trim the ends and and hot glue just to really secure it.

               * Repeat on other side.

    34) Attach dry dyed piece with THREE single half hitch knots & glue the tail behind the hanging. Additionally, if there is a tail from the knotting before, glue that behind as well.

    35) Make sure everything is centered on the rod, remove tape and YOU ARE FINI!! (that’s French for finished..)

    36) Hang that sucker on the wall, brush those shoulders off, and marvel at all of your hard work!!

    • the best way to hang it is to nail two nails into the wall at even heights and lay the large rod on top.


    When you untie the dyed hanging you may find that the dye did not come up to the knots evenly in all spots. Use this technique to fix that while it is still wet:

    1)Put plain water in a bowl and add just a bit of the water/dye mixture used before. Test your color out on a piece of scrap cord – you want the color to match the lightest color at the top of the hanging.

    2)Dip a clean sponge into the new dye mixture and press it into the white spots until the dye is uniform across the piece.


    This shouldn’t happen but if it doesssss (like it did for me) you can fix it easily. Once it’s all done you won’t even notice a couple of these:

    1)Barely cut off the end of the cord that is too short, just to get rid of any fraying.

    2)Do the same on a piece of scrap cord and put a dot of glue on the end.

    3)Attach to piece that is too short